Given that permanent makeup is a detailed procedure and we are tattooing various skin types, it makes sense to be prepared with a variety needle options, even for one procedure.  When it comes to choosing needles my client's skin and desired results are number one factors that I consider prior to selecting needles. Per procedure, I usually have 3 needles ready to choose from.

With 20 years experience behind the needle, I can use a variety of needles however, there is usually a choice that works better for the skin and procedure details at hand.  

As an example, I love curved magnums for brows, eyes and lips. Many artists use this needle for eyeliner, however, I don't find this the best option.  When navigating the 2 rows of needles with magnums, you can easily loose precision that the liner requires. I would prefer a liner or shader needle for more precision.  However, if you prefer using magnums on the eyes you could use them above the line and softly feather in...

After the 1st pass…

(Post mastectomy and reconstruction due to breast cancer)

In the video I’ve finished my first pass. Im layering in texture and details with a pure ink (no dilution).
This can be done after my first pass and/or reinforced at the end of the procedure.

You will mainly see 2 techniques with a 3RL that add:

Details
Texture
Shadow
Highlights

Pointillism- a controlled in and out movement that adds specific color and works well over scar areas with light-medium pressure depending on the thickness of the skin and scar.

Stippling- a looser more surface movement that “speckles” in color with no specific pattern. This works well for texture and I often cross dip colors (no rinsing) as the desired result is mottled.

See the next post for a continuation using a curved magnum needle.

If you’re new to areola tattooing, I do suggest incorporating multiple needles.
For my style of breast work, I usually have 2-4 needles to give a realistic areola and 3D...

Curved Magnums are one of my favorite needles to incorporate for breast tattooing. The magnum puts in color efficiently and softly.

1015 Curved Magnum

 In the video, Im about finished with this areola and the last step is to add what I call a "layover" color.  It's typically a wash of a color or a pure color that helps blend my layers together.

In the video you will see 3 curved magnum movements/techniques 

• Circles/Ovals - softly layering with a light touch working up to the edges
• Back/Forth - Use needles to  softly layer pixels with a light touch that allows you to move back and forth on the skin
• On the Side - With a curved movement shade the nipple focusing more pressure for a darker base and lighter pressure as you lift off creating the gradient shade.

Other needles such as a 3RL/S work great  for more added texture and precision.

To your PMU success,

PMU Artist & Needle Specialist
Inside Needle Knowledge

Purchase the I.N.K. Course...

As professional permanent makeup artists, we constantly strive to refine our skills and explore techniques to deliver outstanding results to our clients. In this educational article, we will discuss the art of smooth shading using curved magnum needles, sharing valuable insights and tips to help PMU artists elevate their shading game.

Understanding Curved Magnum Needles: Curved magnum needles are indispensable tools in the realm of permanent makeup shading. These needles are uniquely designed with a curved configuration, featuring a fan-like arrangement of grouped needles. The curvature facilitates optimal pigment distribution, making them highly effective for creating seamless gradients. The results are an airbrush type of pattern

Benefits of Curved Magnum Needles:

1. Improved Efficiency: The curved shape of magnum needles enables artists to cover larger areas more efficiently. By maximizing the surface contact with the skin, shading procedures can be completed more...

Hello PMU Artists,
Have you ever noticed the differences  in how a 3 Round liner or shader needle are arranged? Maybe you're tattooing and seeing a different pattern when you switch from brow to brow or you notice a color difference.  Maybe your eyeliner got too thick on the inner part...

Of course this can be one of many "needle influencers" such as your speed, stretch angle depth, or pressure, but for a start, I would recommend to take a close look at your needle arrangement.

Are you leading your needle with 1 needle or 2?
Not only can the needle spacing be unique to each needle manufacturer but the needle arrangement is to consider as well.

 If you're trying to create a very thin line on the inner portion of the eyeliner, or a crisp line for lips it is most helpful to recognize exactly how your needles are configured so you can be precise when tattooing. 

Once you pay attention to this you may find yourself rotating your machine  for those tiny details...

When attooing over any type of damaged skin, realistic expectations are a must. While permanent makeup can help enhance features and conceal imperfections, it may not completely eradicate the effects of damaged skin.

• MOLES can be incorporated into the design but usually tattooing over a mole isn’t advisable due to unforeseen circumstances such as a mole developing into a cancerous one.
• REACTIVE SKIN aka skin that reddens immediately can be a challenge when reading your ink.  I find working slowly and getting in the color with least the amount of passes (that make the skin redder) is a good approach. The approach is In/Out/Done.  I may use a larger needle to implant more color quickly, slow my hand speed,  or alter techniques to soft pointillism, (with a smaller needle) which doesn’t redden the skin as much as whip or pendulum shading can.
• BUMPY SKIN ODDITIES may or may not take color. I point these areas out to my clients because many aren’t...

This way of storing needles is the best way I've found, so far. Since I may choose 1-3 needles per procedure, it takes time to select needles and return them to the box if I don't use them.

My cabinet stays organized for about 6 months and then I find needles I didn't use loose on the shelves and need to do some organizing. 

Right now I sort by vendor and find that is most useful when reaching for my favorites.

To your PMU success,

PMU Artist & Needle Specialist
Inside Needle Knowledge

Purchase the I.N.K. Course Now

Many techniques can be achieved with most any needle configuration including magnum needles. However, the magnum needles really shine when it comes to efficient coverage with an airbrush quality. The results can be soft or packed in solid. The effect form the magnum configurations are more air brushed looking than pixels that you would get from a round needle.

During the video I demonstrate a few techniques:

• Stippling:  you can vary pressure for different opacities of color 
   
• Small movements such as ovals:  pack in color
   
• Pixel short movements on the surface. Either direction works and cross hatching will help blend the color.
   
• Long sweeping /brushing movements build the color softly. Wipe and check frequently.
   
• Back brushing is great for less color, such as top of the brow, blending down from the lip line for a borderless effect and also for areola edges. It's a personal favorite technique.
   
• Moving forward at an angle will...

Machine Stroke Length

 Machine stroke length refers to the amount of travel the cam wheel or stroke wheel makes around the machine bearing in one rotation. Machine stroke also refers to how soft or hard of a hit a tattoo machine has. 

It’s common for PMU Artists to use rotary tattoo machines.  Rotary machines have stroke settings anywhere from about 1.8 up to 5.0. Some machines have set strokes and others are adjustable with a turn of the grip (Axys) Some machines come with various cams or stoke wheels that you can replace after taking the machine apart (Xion)

 The stroke affects 3 key factors such as:

• How hard the machine hits the skin
• How fast the needle moves up and down
• The maximum amount of needle throw out of the cartridge tip        

With a short stroke setting such as a 1.8 or 2.5, the cam or stroke wheel has a short distance to travel.  This in turn makes a lower stroke setting a softer hitting machine option...