Taking a previous thicker faded liner and refreshing it doesn't always require the new artist to follow the existing design.
At first, my client requested a new soft thin lower liner and a solid black upper liner cover up over her 6 year faded permanent makeup. Although I personally don't begin new liner with wings or tails, I could either darken over previous work or I have an option to create a new design. I explained to my client that her faded steely grey-blue liner could act as a shadow above a black, dark defined line in the lash line. I also thought this would look nice with the soft lower line request. She liked the new design idea so I tattooed it.
Note that the previous work has yellowish color above the old line. This is usually a highlight that could have been white and turned yellow over time, or there was a dark mistake that the artist tried to cover with lighter ink. In this case, the...
Hello PMU Artists,
I thought there was a boom in our needle choices and I was mistaken. There is an explosion!
Isn't is a challenge to keep track of your needle favorites and which companies sell what sizes in the variety of configurations? I love needles and it's quite exciting to see what's coming to market for our PMU industry.
Of course, you could use most standard tattoo needle cartridges labeled for the tattoo industry or for the PMU industry in our procedures, however I must say, Im proud of the PMU industry pushing to the forefront and creating great products and a variety of needle choices for the variety rotary machines we have available to us today.
I decided to start a log sheet of some of the "PMU" needle cartridges available. This is by no way all of them and keep in mind, you could use most cartridges so long as the needles are the size, taper and configuration are you want for your artistry.
There is an abundance of needle...
There are so many new cartridge needles coming to market! This will be fun to try. Right now Im trying the Tina Davies new needles. They are unique because of the very long taper, which makes the needles flexible and have give in the skin.
We all know there are several ways to use our needles as it comes down to our permanent makeup artistry. Im sharing the 2 ways in the brow video using a curved magnum on the side and flat using the width of the needle cartridge.
The soft airbrushed background will reveal itself lighter in a few days and be ready for another color and technique layer in a few weeks.
The pixel result with a single or a 3RL (on top of my soft background) adds texture and dimension so I might do that over the healed brows.
By Tina Davies Professional
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To your PMU success,
Even on areola pixels add nice texture and dimension over my healed areola for texture and dimension with a .2503RL. or sometimes a 1Rl.
The TD needles have give are flexible and create perfect pixels with the long taper!
To your PMU success,
PMU Artist & Needle Specialist
Inside Needle Knowledge
Just by the name "5 Magnum" these two needle cartridges seem like they would be similar, however, the words curved and stacked are what make these needles quite unique.
Imagine the pattern difference between these to 5 magnums. The curved magnum will leave a loose ink pattern in the skin verses the 5 stacked magnum, which will leave a denser ink pattern.
The hand movements with these needles in my experience are different. With a curved magnum I can move with loose ovals, forward brushing, back brushing and pendulum movements.. Where as the stacked mag, will require more forward type movements and less side to side movements or the sharp corners can tear or create nicks in the skin.
I personally prefer the looser curved magnum because of the freedom of movements I can do, but I know artists do nice work with the stacked magnum.
Each needle requires unique hand movements.
Any questions? Feel free to just email...
Why am I a fan of curved magnums? The curved magnum changed my artistry. Back when I started in the PMU world, I was using a machine that only proprietary cartridge needles would fit into. What that meant was that I was limited to certain needle groupings. Learning permanent makeup was hard enough, but these needles just didn't make sense to me....they were suppose to be my paint brushes so to speak and they didn't speak to me.
I ventured out and bought a tattoo machine that accepted several cartridge needle configurations in all shapes and sizes. I remember trying a 23 curved magnum on a practice pad. I thought how much quicker my procedures would be and the ease of creating a smooth pattern seemed effortless. As I continued to try different configurations such a larger round shaders 9,11 etc. I was continually impressed with the magnums. A 13 curved magnum for cosmetic procedures and larger such as a 17 curved magnum for areola tattooing...
Aside from the actual configuration difference and how the needles line up, a round liner and a magnum also give different effects when tattooing. The above photo are seperate examples of a round liner and a magnum used for eyebrows and also used on a practice pad. I've used the same pendulum motion technique and the same machine speed on the practice pad to demonstrate the different effects of these needle configurations.
Liner needles are typically grouped in a circle and the needles are soldered tight together. When used for a pixel technique they can give a textured effect especially a 3 round liner for example. A single needle can give texture as well, however depending on the technique used, you can also get an airbrushed effect similar to a magnum from a single needle, it just takes time to build up the color. Liners give you the opportunity to leave untouched skin space where there's no to minimal color deposited in the skin and also are great when you...
Several needle manufacturers include bugpin size needles and nano sizes in cartridge needles and manual needles. When deciphering tattoo needle sizes, bugpins, nanos, and taper, all come into play in different ways.
Bugpins are usually .30 or smaller, however when the sizes get really small they are referred to as "nano" size needles. There are no rules so to speak on what exact size needle is a bugpin or a nano, as that is up to the manufacturer to label the needles. It would be safe to say that a .12, .15, and a .18 are considered nanos.
A tip to remember:
The taper determines the end size of the needle as it touches the skin.
We don’t always have exact taper information but you can identify it if it’s listed on the packaging code or use an eye loupe to help.
Hope that helps with needle clarity and some of the terms we hear today as PMU artists.
- To your PMU success,
PMU Artist & Needle Specialist
Inside Needle Knowledge
How deep should we be in the skin? It does depend on the area your tattooing. As an example the eyebrows verses the eyelids are different. Even the eyelids at the tarsal plate are different than the eyelid skin above it.
As a former skin care professional, I can just about look at the skin and know if it's thick or thin, however you can also give it a pinch and feel the skin and note the difference. Tattooing in thin skin will be more shallow than tattooing in thicker skin. The best advice I can give is to feel your needles in the skin with your stretching fingers. It's something you start to intuitively do and you know where you are in the skin by feeling the vibration form the needles.
It's more difficult to feel smaller needle groupings and also smaller diameter needles such as nano needles. The vibration is minimal and the nano needles and smaller groups penetrate the skin quickly so it's important to F E E L where your...
When we tattoo hair strokes or are doing lining, sometimes our results aren't as expected, but why? One reason is our speed.
Inconsistent Speed- Basically what's happening is that the hand is moving slow and fast resulting in an inconsistent line with some areas receiving more or less pigment than others. The line will look "skippy". Usually slowing down hand speed will help achieve a solid line.
Inconsistent Depth- Factors such as needle throw, machine stroke, skin type and pressure all come into play. Feeling the needle vibration in the skin with the stretching hand helps control the needle depth. Inconsistent depth and pressure results in lines that may appear thicker and blurred when the needle is too deep or the opposite is not enough pressure which results in a thinner line that is too surface and won't last after healing.
Consistent Speed and Depth- The harmony of hand and machine speed and proper depth result in consistent...
This chart helps you pay attention to your hand speed, machine speed, and hand movements when using liners for a liner effect and shaders for a shaded effect.
It also shows how you can use:
A great go-to chart is just the beginning!